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Best Buys and Bargains in Paris: A look at Paris produce markets

One of the greatest things about Paris, as we all know, is the food. One of the reasons it's so great is because of the quality of the raw ingredients. In every neighborhood of Paris there are weekly produce markets where you can find an astounding array of fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, poultry, meat, fish plus non-food items such as household goods, clothes, dishes and so on. Following is a list of a few of my favorite markets, both indoor and outdoor. If you're in the mood for a picnic and/or you just want to sample some of the best fresh food you've ever had, you've definitely got to visit a local market. You can get a complete list of all the markets (in French) at the "Hôtel de Ville de Paris" or Paris Town Hall, just opposite the department store BHV on the rue de Rivoli. Just ask for it at the reception desk.


SOME OUTDOOR PRODUCE MARKETS:

All the markets listed have the same hours: 9 am to 1 pm

Saxe Breteuil Market
7th arrondissement
avenue de Saxe, from avenue de Ségur to the place Breteuil
Métro Ségur
Thursday, Saturday

Within sight of the Eiffel Tower, this pleasant market has an excellent selection of food items, plus assorted clothing, lace, wine, purses, fresh pasta and porcelain dishes. You can even find Albanian pizza!

Batignolles Market (organic)
8th arrondissement & 17th arrondissement
boulevard des Batignolles on the center divider strip between no. 27 & 35 (8th) and no. 34 & 48 (17th)
Métro Place de Clichy/Rome
Saturday

This delightful market specializes in natural and organic ("biologique") foods, both fresh produce and take-out dishes. With all the food crises lately, this is becoming more and more popular in France. You can also find raw silk blouses, mare’s milk, wine and sushi, all in the same space! This is a great market to visit to pick up a picnic lunch.

Bastille Market
11th arrondissement
boulevard Richard Lenoir, from rue Amelot to rue St Sabin
Métro Bastille
Thursday, Sunday

This large and busy market has so many stands that it’s a little hard to make a choice. As a matter of fact, it’s the largest in the city.

Président Wilson Market
16th arrondissement
center divider strip of avenue du Président Wilson between rue Debrousse and Place d'Iéna
Métro Alma Marceau/Iéna
Wednesday, Saturday

This is a lovely market with great inexpensive clothes for kids besides a good selection of produce and products.

Barbès Market
18th arrondissement
side road of boulevard de la Chapelle facing Hôpital Lariboisière
Métro Barbès
Wednesday, Saturday

You can pretend that you have taken a side trip to North Africa here. Be forewarned that you may have to push your way through the crowd. This market is animated, inexpensive and you can find great olives!

Dejean Market
18th arrondissement
rue Dejean
Métro Château Rouge
Tuesday to Sunday 10 to 1 and 3 to 7 (approximately)

Here you can pretend you’re in Central Africa. It’s a little dingy, but what the heck -- you’ve got atmosphere! Besides the produce, there are fresh fish stores that sell exotic fish not found elsewhere in Paris. It’s crowded with Africans, some in traditional dress, doing their shopping.


SOME INDOOR COVERED MARKETS:

Aligre Market
12th arrondissement
Place d'Aligre
Métro Ledru Rollin
Tuesday to Saturday 8 to 1 and 4 to 7:30, Sunday 8 to 1

On your way to the covered market are the fruit and vegetable stands, piled high with fresh produce. It's loud, lively and can get pretty crowded on the weekends. As you continue toward the Place d'Aligre, watch out for the shopping carts! Eventually you'll find the covered market with specialty stands for cheese, fish, meat, poultry, coffee & tea, flowers and Italian food.

Passy Market
16th arrondissement
at the corner of rue Bois le Vent and rue Duban
Métro La Muette
Tuesday to Saturday 8 to 1, Sunday 8 to 1

This is a small market in the middle of an up-scale shopping street, rue de Passy. The ceilings are high, giving it a light and airy feel. At one end you can choose from live fish swimming in a tank. At the other end stands a stuffed fox overlooking the mushrooms.

Batignolles Market
17th arrondissement
96 bis rue Lemercier
Métro Brochant
Tuesday to Saturday 8 to 12:30 and 4 to 7:30, Sunday, 8-12:30

Hidden in a more remote neighborhood, this large and busy covered market is impressive. Besides the stands in the market, there are food specialty stores on the street rue des Moines, which runs along the market. It’s definitely worth checking out if you’re in this neighborhood.

La Chapelle Market
18th arrondissement
10 rue de l'Olive,
Métro Marx Dormoy
Tuesday to Friday 8 to 1 and 4 to 7:30, Saturday 8 to 1 and 3:30 to 7:30, Sunday, 8 to 1

I had to list this market since this is where I do my weekly shopping! Although the market is small, the merchants are great. You can find terrific fresh vegetables and fruits, fresh fish, poultry and meat and there are two great cheese stands besides stands for olives and dried fruit. It's not large enough to warrant a special trip, but come on by if you're in the neighborhood (which, though not pretty is lively and "sympa" or nice!).

by Jeanne Feldman
author of Best Buys and Bargains in Paris



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