The major flea markets ("marchés aux puces") in Paris are run by licensed dealers. So, although the prices are definitely lower than in antique and second hand stores, they reflect this fact. If you really want to look carefully and seriously ("chiner") at rummage sales ("brocantes"), you might want to find out where the non-professionals are. There are two excellent French magazines where, even if you don't read French, you can check out the lists at the back. Look for the word "foire" (fair) which means that normal everyday people can sell of their goods without the usual bureaucratic hassles from the French government. Also be on the lookout for "vide-greniers" (attic sales, I guess they have more attics than garages!).

Both magazines can be found at any news stand. One is called "Aladin" which, besides lists of all the flea markets and "foires" in Paris and all over France, has articles with tips on how to look for second hand goods and on collecting. It comes out once a month. The other publication which is really more of a newspaper, comes out every Friday and is called "La vie du collectionneur". It concentrates on how to collect and the latest "in" things to collect.

While you happily wander around Paris, you may be lucky enough to stumble upon a sign saying "Grande Braderie" posted on the outside of a church. Rejoice! You have just found a church rummage sale, a great place to find real bargains, usually located in the "crypte" (don't worry -- that means the church basement!). It's well worth the effort to circle around the church to find the entrance.

SOME PARIS FLEA MARKETS:

Be prepared to pay with cash rather than a check or credit card so you can negotiate a bit (What's your best price? or "Quel est votre meilleur prix?"). Many merchants will lower their prices, at the end, by 20 to 30%, although it helps to know price ranges to begin with. Speaking of cash, keep it carefully hidden as there are usually gangs of pickpockets who circulate around all the flea markets.

If you buy an item over 100 years old, you'll need a certificate of authenticity to avoid customs duty when shipped or carried home. An advantage of authorized dealers is that they can do this. And, they can also help you with shipping, which can be expensive, so be sure to calculate that into the final price. You may also be entitled to a "détaxe form", so ask for that too.

PUCE DE SAINT-OUEN (Saint-Ouen is just to the north of Paris)
Métro Porte de Clignancourt
Open Saturday between 8 & 9 to 5:30 & 6:30, Sunday 9 & 10 to 5:30 & 6:30 and Monday 9 & 11 to 5 & 6:30 (all very ish).
Friday is open for other dealers.

Take your time to wander around and enjoy the atmosphere. What I like about this flea market, the biggest in the world, is the sense of being in another place and time, far away from the "real" world. You'll have a sense of being removed from everyday reality, and the more you wander, the better it gets. This may compensate for the fact that you probably won't find super bargains here, although the prices are less than inside Paris proper. You also have all the advantages of buying from authorized dealers (like if anything comes up later, you know where to find them!).

The official market is organized into sub-markets, each with its own character and atmosphere. City walls used to separate Paris from the outside areas, and many of the poor people who used to live on the "other side" of the wall sold junk and old clothes to survive. Plus, they escaped city taxes! By the 1880's people from Paris were already coming here to buy secondhand items. Around 1920, when the walls were destroyed, the dealers organized themselves into official markets. As you wander along, you'll also see private businesses among the official sub-markets.

Here is a list of the sub-markets:

MARCHE ANTICA
99 rue des Rosiers
This is a new and high class market.

MARCHE BIRON
85 rue des Rosiers
The fanciest, most formal and elegant market, Biron has genuine antiques and a good selection of furniture.

MARCHE CAMBO
75 rue des Rosiers
Although serious and with genuine antiques, Cambo is a little less fancy than Biron. It's a bit hard to find, so look for the entrance opposite "Marson Beys", one of the private markets.

MARCHE DAUPHINE
140 rue des Rosiers
This is one of the newest and most modern markets.

MARCHE JULES-VALLES
7-9 rue Jules Vallès
Not as serious as some of the other markets, Jules Vallès has lower prices for good, old-fashioned rummage. It's second best after Paul Bert.

MARCHE LECUYER-VALLES
20 rue Jules Vallès
This is a small, friendly and junky market (you never know).

MARCHE MALASSIS
142 rue des Rosiers
A new market, Malassis is not as interesting as some of the others.

MARCHE MALIK
53 rue Jules Vallès
They used to sell "fripes" (secondhand clothes) here, but Malik is now stuffed with junky new clothes. Spare yourself the effort.

MARCHE PAUL BERT
96 rue des Rosiers and 18 rue Paul Bert
Begun just after World War II, Paul Bert is considered by many to be the best market. Here you can find good deals if you have a good eye. Be sure to visit Madeleine, my friend's cousin who has a stand that sells fire irons, grills and other chimney accessories. It's stand 59, "Allée" (aisle) 1.

MARCHE DES ROSIERS
3 rue Paul Bert
A mere 12 stalls specialize in Art Nouveau ("style 1900").

MARCHE SERPETTE
110 rue des Rosiers
Serpette is dark, formal, fancy and has genuine antiques.

MARCHE VERNAISON
99 rue des Rosiers
This large and varied market is the oldest.

PUCE DE VANVES
avenue Georges Lafenestre and Marc Sangnier, 14th arrondissement
Métro Porte de Vanves
Open Saturday and Sunday 7 to 2(ish)

This is one of the best flea markets in Paris, relaxed and informal with its combination of licensed and un-licensed dealers sitting behind tables set up on the sidewalk. You can find an enormous selection of bric-a brac. This is just a partial list of what you can find: buttons, miniature cars, old books, puppets, jewelry, chests of drawers, paintings, military medals, religious statues, birdcages, top hats, plus teddy bears in various states of disrepair. At one part of the market, trees overhang the street, so you can hear birds singing in the background as you stroll along. "Quelle atmosphere!" If you want to maintain your image of quaint and charming Paris, come to this market!

This article is based on exerpts from Jeanne Feldman's shopping guide "Best Buys and Bargains in Paris." For more information on flea markets and listings of many other stores, you can order the book from Barnes & Noble and other bookstores, bn.com, amazon.com and amazon.fr.